The rise (and rupture) of intuitive eating

Photo: Asnim Ansari/Unsplash

Imagine yourself, if you will, in the midst of the exquisite diet chaos of the 90s. Pick your fighter. Diet juggernaut Robert Atkins (who first introduced his eponymous low-carb diet in the 70s) released “The New Diet Revolution” in 1992, vying for hearts and stomachs against the perfect nothingness of the new fat-free Snackwell cookie. 1994 saw the publication of low-fat lobbyist Dean Ornish’s punchy “Eat More, Weigh Less,” putting a slick gloss on magical thinking. Barry Sears fired out his pro-protein “Enter The Zone: A Dietary Road Map” the following year. …


Even in the hardest, strangest times, they’re there

Photo: Lucas Ninno/Moment/Getty Images

In Nilesh Patel’s documentary film, A Love Supreme, his mother’s fingers dance with the elegance of a silver screen star. Her hands cradle an onion, her nails tracing the edges of its papery skin and disrobing it in one deft movement. We see a flash of henna-stained palms as delicate fingers pop peas from their pods or juice a plump lemon. Fingers fix into a claw shape to whisk flour with water; later, they cup softly around samosa skins as they are filled. With the rhythms of cooking drummed into her muscle memory, every movement is performed by heart.

As…


On eating, health and guilt

Illustration: Pearl Law; Quote: The Ellyn Satter Institute

INTRO NOTE: I’ve written and published this article for free, fully open access, because I think it’s vital in the wake of the BBC Horizon show from last night. But the UK’s leading eating disorder charity, Beat, needs your help! Their services are extra stretched right now and money is low. If you gain anything from this article and you can afford to give even a couple of pounds, I ask that you please donate to them! The whole point of this essay is to raise a) awareness and b) funds. If you can donate, do so here. Thank you.


The Life and Dreams of Esiah Levy

Illustration of Esiah picking kernels off a corn cob and placing them into brown envelopes. A green cityscape unfolds behind.
Illustration of Esiah picking kernels off a corn cob and placing them into brown envelopes. A green cityscape unfolds behind.
Illustration: Sinae Park

Illustration: Sinae Park
Photos: Maria Bell
Words: Ruby Tandoh

The seeds would arrive in envelopes, their names scrawled in ballpoint pen across the back. ‘Giant Hubbard,’ read one packet, the seeds for the heavy, dense-fleshed squash landing in Wiltshire in England’s rural south-west. A package of squash and corn seeds found its way to a village perched on Senegal’s coast, just south of the nation’s capital, Dakar. In Cypress, southern California, a similar parcel arrived. Inside the crumpled paper was a jumble of seeds for rhubarb and beautiful, mosaic-like glass gem corn, each kernel shimmering a different colour.

It was…


The show raises profiles of POC while symbolizing an implicitly white Britishness

Photo: Benjamina Ebuehi Instagram

When she first got the message asking if she’d be interested in writing a baking book, Benjamina Ebuehi thought it was a scam.

After reaching the quarterfinals of the “Great British Bake Off” in 2016 (and being defeated at the hands of a fiendishly difficult Tudor-themed baking challenge), she’d approached a few British publishers without success.

“There was just not much interest,” she explained over coffee in a North London branch of social enterprise Luminary Bakery, an initiative providing training and support for women who experienced gender-based violence, and for which Ebuehi serves as an ambassador.

So when Page Street…

Ruby Tandoh

Ruby is a food writer for Taste, The Guardian, ELLE, Eater and more. She is the author of Eat Up! and two recipe books, Crumb and Flavour.

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